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Milady ch 20 chemical texture services
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Perm activated by an outside source.
Endothermic
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Keratin proteins are made of long what?
Chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads
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If hair is under processed, further processing will make the hair
Curlier
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Explain neutralization.
Thio neutralizer zation rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the waving solution.
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Male clients want to add what to their hair
Texture
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Polypeptide chains are peptide bonds formed by amino acids that join what?
Chemical bonds
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Type of wrap that causes the hair to look like candy canes?
Spiral
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To use an end wrap on top of the hair and on bottom of the hair is called what?
Double flat wrap
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Acid balanced perms give what effect?
Process more quickly, and produce firmer curls.
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How do we determine processing time of a perm?
Strength of solution
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Polypeptide chains are long chains of what?
Amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
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Perm that creates a chemical reaction to create heat.
Exothermic
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Glycerol monothioglycolate is the active ingredient in what type of waving lotion?
True acid and acid balancing
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What type of curl do straight rods create?
A uniform curl the entire width of the curl
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A disulfide bond forms when a sulfur when two adjacent chains do what?
Join together
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What do we use end wraps for?
To control the ends
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What type of hair takes longer to process?
Resistant or course hair
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What is the basic perm wrap called?
Straight set
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What wrap do we use to prevent splits?
Bricklay
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A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately what % of the hairs disulfide bonds?
50
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When does most of the processing take place when the solution penetrates the hair, within the first?
5-10 min
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Describe a bookend end wrap.
When an end paper is folded in half over the hair.
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What type of perm solution works by softening and expanding the hair?
Alkaline perm solution
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Describe a concave perm rod.
Small diameter in the center area and gradually increases to their larger diameter on the ends.
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Course hair with a strong resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that come from what type of perm?
Highly alkaline perm
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We can use a liquid protein conditioner under the dryer for 5 minutes if it is what?
Acidic
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What type of hair is more fragile?
Fine
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Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in what type of perm?
Alkaline perm
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We double rod wrap for what type of hair?
Very long hair
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Metallic salts coat the hair making it so the curl will be what?
Uneven,severe discoloration or breakage
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What happens to the hair if not properly rinsed ?
It can lighten because of the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer reacts to the waving lotion.
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What type of hair is easily penetrated by the waving lotion?
Porous
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If to many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process, what happens to the hair?
The hair will be to weak to hold a firm curl.
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Neutralizer rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by what?
Waving lotion
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Waving lotion breaks the desulfide bonds through this.
Chemical reaction called reduction
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We use a weave technique to do what?
Divide base area
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We need to rinse the perm solution for at least
5 minutes
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A curvature wrap follows what?
The curvature of the head.
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When we only perm a small section of the hair it is called.
Partial perm
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