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Milady ch 20 chemical texture services
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Metallic salts coat the hair making it so the curl will be what?
Uneven,severe discoloration or breakage
Male clients want to add what to their hair
Texture
When we only perm a small section of the hair it is called.
Partial perm
We use a weave technique to do what?
Divide base area
What wrap do we use to prevent splits?
Bricklay
Describe a bookend end wrap.
When an end paper is folded in half over the hair.
Type of wrap that causes the hair to look like candy canes?
Spiral
We double rod wrap for what type of hair?
Very long hair
What is the basic perm wrap called?
Straight set
A curvature wrap follows what?
The curvature of the head.
What happens to the hair if not properly rinsed ?
It can lighten because of the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer reacts to the waving lotion.
We need to rinse the perm solution for at least
5 minutes
We can use a liquid protein conditioner under the dryer for 5 minutes if it is what?
Acidic
Explain neutralization.
Thio neutralizer zation rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the waving solution.
Describe a concave perm rod.
Small diameter in the center area and gradually increases to their larger diameter on the ends.
What type of curl do straight rods create?
A uniform curl the entire width of the curl
What do we use end wraps for?
To control the ends
To use an end wrap on top of the hair and on bottom of the hair is called what?
Double flat wrap
Acid balanced perms give what effect?
Process more quickly, and produce firmer curls.
Perm that creates a chemical reaction to create heat.
Exothermic
Perm activated by an outside source.
Endothermic
What type of hair is more fragile?
Fine
What type of hair takes longer to process?
Resistant or course hair
How do we determine processing time of a perm?
Strength of solution
When does most of the processing take place when the solution penetrates the hair, within the first?
5-10 min
A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately what % of the hairs disulfide bonds?
50
If to many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process, what happens to the hair?
The hair will be to weak to hold a firm curl.
If hair is under processed, further processing will make the hair
Curlier
Neutralizer rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by what?
Waving lotion
Polypeptide chains are peptide bonds formed by amino acids that join what?
Chemical bonds
Polypeptide chains are long chains of what?
Amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Keratin proteins are made of long what?
Chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads
A disulfide bond forms when a sulfur when two adjacent chains do what?
Join together
What type of perm solution works by softening and expanding the hair?
Alkaline perm solution
Waving lotion breaks the desulfide bonds through this.
Chemical reaction called reduction
Course hair with a strong resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that come from what type of perm?
Highly alkaline perm
What type of hair is easily penetrated by the waving lotion?
Porous
Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in what type of perm?
Alkaline perm
Glycerol monothioglycolate is the active ingredient in what type of waving lotion?
True acid and acid balancing
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